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Jerry_Atrick

My Next Bike...

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More likely around the tank area (heat) and mainswitch unit. The ignition switches are prone to problems. Probably the originals are the best, but they aren't new anymore.. Generally a WLA is a pretty good jigger as long as it's sorted and not modified. Carry a spare coil . The chinese ones last about 3 years. The generator is not regulated. It only has a cutout and 3rd brush adjustment and an extra field coil (called a "shunt ") that comes into play when the lights are on. You can overcharge the battery, on a long run. which means acid around the place. If you want to put a regulator on it the internal wiring of the generator should be altered to use both field coils at the same time and with the correct polarity. Nev

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While on this topic, does anyone know how to replace brittle plastic cable sheaths? I am rebuilding a 1970 Yamaha at present and the grey plastic tubing around each group of wires has gone hard. It will look silly if I strip it off and wrap with tape. New loom is not available as far as I know.

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I do not know if you can get the grey tube but maybe use black if needed.

 

Simply cut the old one off carefully, so you don't nip any wires.

If you use a very small jewellers flat screwdriver - you can release each wire as it enters a connection block.

Best to do a drawing of what goes where first.

 

Then slide the new cover on the group of wires. Put wires back into connector and make sure it is correct way up and the little tab on the wire end is up so it can engage the connector.

 

Pull each wire to make sure it has been secured into the connector block.

Connect to the loom and you check operation to endure its all good. This can be done with a voltmeter or even just a wire and bulb.

 

I don't remember the loom on a 70 model but the basics are all the same.

 

Some looms will actually require you to split the loom where it branches out and often includes wires that are soldered together. That is a pain but just takes time to resolder.

Just make sure any soldering efforts do not shorten any wires too much, as that can cause problems if the loom becomes too taut when installed. Esp around the headstem ends.

Don't forget to inspect each wire for faults, burn marks, corrosion or brittleness. Also clean them and the ends well.

 

Any areas that are not covered in tube, use a self amalgamated tape on. It self seals and provides a water tight closure.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Feel free to ask anything else.

 

What model is it?

Tx 500?

 

Cheers Phil

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I do not know if you can get the grey tube but maybe use black if needed.

 

Simply cut the old one off carefully, so you don't nip any wires.

If you use a very small jewellers flat screwdriver - you can release each wire as it enters a connection block.

Best to do a drawing of what goes where first.

 

Then slide the new cover on the group of wires. Put wires back into connector and make sure it is correct way up and the little tab on the wire end is up so it can engage the connector.

 

Pull each wire to make sure it has been secured into the connector block.

Connect to the loom and you check operation to endure its all good. This can be done with a voltmeter or even just a wire and bulb.

 

I don't remember the loom on a 70 model but the basics are all the same.

 

Some looms will actually require you to split the loom where it branches out and often includes wires that are soldered together. That is a pain but just takes time to resolder.

Just make sure any soldering efforts do not shorten any wires too much, as that can cause problems if the loom becomes too taut when installed. Esp around the headstem ends.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Feel free to ask anything else.

 

What model is it?

Tx 500?

Thanks will try that. It is an RT1 360.

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...Just make sure any soldering efforts do not shorten any wires too much, as that can cause problems if the loom becomes too taut when installed. Esp around the headstem ends...

Good advice, Litey. Early Japanese wiring looms were sometimes shorter than tolerance and plugs would pull out when handlebars were turned fully.

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Even some of the later ones.

I redid my Yamaha Tdm 850 when I converted it to street fighter and lost 40 kg.

Transformed it onto a very mean wheelie machine.

And stoppie beast. Superbike brakes on a adventure bike standard- got to love that.

But the loom ended a touch too short and would sometimes cut the ignition. Mid corner. Not fun.

 

Fixed it but lesson learnt.

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I hope to restore my Guzzi to road-going condition in the near future, but fear the wiring and switchgear may be the biggest job.

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New Bike !

These electric vehicles are a bit cramped,LoL1889356531_RonanAriaiana2.thumb.jpg.21393adb3f95e1f2d65c5a6de20f6adc.jpg

spacesailor + 2 G-G_children

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Guzzi electrics are made from spaghetti and the switch blocks from low quality Parmesan cheese.

 

My mk 3 LeMans never had problems.

I had replaced the switchgear with ally ones from a 70's Yamaha. Tough and reliable.

 

The ignition went to a Dyna electronic unit. And high output coils . Awesome spark and reliable.

Easy to start every time even bump starting.

The crappy headlight replaced with a big round BMW one.

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Spacey,

 

Looking good.

 

How much beer does the basket hold?

 

Priorities are important

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The copper in the wires goes brittle (work hardening) and the Plastic covering doesn't last long in the sun.. Magneti Marelli OR Lucas was never as good as DelcoRemy... Early HD electrics were excellent compared to most other stuff available but I don't like COIL ignition on EARLY Motorbikes. You are always having battery issues but old folks can't kick the stuff over and younger ones never learned how to, so they fit electric start or buy a modern retro look FAKE early bike or Harley copy. which is neither one thing or the other. So there.. Nev

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